
Class 
Book 






^ 



GoRyriglit}!"- 



COPnUGHT DEPOSIT. 



/ 

26 Cents. 

THE ^^^ 



Etiquette 



— OF — 



Men s Dress. 



New York : 
"the men's outfitter,' 

Mercantile Exchange Building, cor. Hudson and Harrison Sts. 
1888. 



*^- 



•(ri- 




FISK, CLARK & FLAGG, 

Men's Neckwear, 

GLOVES, 

BRACES, 

SHIRTS, 
NIGHT SHIRTS, 

BEARING OUR NAME ARE THE BEST 
THAT CAN BE MADE. 



■m- 



f — ■ f 

BUDD. 



(( 



Madison Square, 

NEW YORK, 

QjTFITTl[MGS°QEpLEP]Ef^'s 
STREET AND EVENING WEAR 



WEDDING OUTFITS A SPECIALTY- 



■r 



THE 



Etiquette 



— OF 



Men's Dress 



New York: 
' the men's outfitter," 

Mercantile Exchange Building, cor. Iludion and Harrison Sts. 
lSS8. 



^\o^ 



Copyright^ 

1888, 

By CHAS. CLUCAS. 



All rights reserveO. 



yo-io sj 



PUBLISHER'S ANNOUNCEMENT. 



This volume is published by " The Men's Outfitter" (formerly The 
Furnishing Goods Trade Review), for ten years the standard authority 
on men's dress for the United States. 

It has been prepared wiih great care, and \vhat it presents mry be 
relied upon as correct, and authoritative, and as repesentirg the 
prevailing metropolitan customs. 

Many of the articles have been prepared by writers of well known 
familiarity with the several subjects treated by thtm. For instance tlic 
chipter on bicycling is from the pen of Mr. Thos. S evens, and that 
on racing was written ly Mr. Charles Victor Sass, while others are the 
contributions of specialistf of ec^ual prominence and authority. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

PAOE. 

AFTERN'OO?^ RECEPTIONS, - - - - 48 

BALL ROOM, --. -. --15 

BICYCLING, ----- -- 56 

BUSINESS, - - . . . - - 22 

CALLS, (ev^ening) ------- 37 

CANOEING, - --.---_ (35 

DINNERS, - , . - » - - - 35 

DRIVING, -------- /6 

FUNERALS, ------ . '/I 

HUNTING, - - - - - , - _ (J2 

LOUNGING, ------- 29 

NIGHTWEAR, ----... 29 

OCEAN STEAMERS, r)9 

OPERA, - ;},S 

RACE-COURSE, 85 



U " CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 
RECEPTIONS, ---C.O-..-48 

RTDINa, - -_.--- 73 

SHOOTING, - - ------65 

TENNIS, ----»-. 51 

THEATRE. - - -----38 

TOBOCrGANrNG, ------ 90 

TRAVELING, (R. R.) - - - - - - 79 

" (steamer) ----- 5& 

WALKING, - - - . - - - 45 

WEDDINGS, (day) - -. •- - - . 39 
" (evening) ----- 44 

YACHTING > ---.-- 82 



InlroJuctory. 



" •^if'''^ ^^ ^^® ^"^ ^^^''^* ''^ "^''^^ ^^^^ *^^ society," 
i^l'^ says Abbe Latour, "to divss like a geiitle- 
J(^'^ man." This fact beinjj; iiiuversallv conceded, 
'^ as it incontestably is in polite society, the 
problem for the neophyte entering within the ^^at<?9 
of the social world is — How does a gentleman dress? 
One cannot, in seeking the solution of this knotty 
problem, enter a clothier's shop and complacently 
settle the question by pointing to a roll of cloth in 
the window, exclaiming, " I want some of that," a3 
a giddy school girl might simper before a mysteri- 
ous tray of comlits in a confectioner's. There must 
be method in this desire, and inttdligence as well, to 
dress correctly. The attribut^^ of good taste in dress 
is sometimes born with an individual, but is oftener 
developed, like all other refinements of life, by ex- 
perience and attrition with people of good breeding.^ 
Richness of materials or costliness in their price 
have little or nothing to do with the taste and style 
of a gentleman's dress. A suit of blue ilannel, 
stylishly made and properly worn, with the acces- 
sories of well fitting boots and gloves, linen a la 
modc^ and •' a cap that fits," signify more in stamp- 
ing the impress of the gentleman, than the most 
elaborate of expensive costumes thrown on or ad- 
justed in a nondescript way by a man destitute of 
taste or style. The limitations as to correct style in 



12 IN^TEODUCTOEY. 

dress, liave of late years come to be very strongly 
drawn. The loud and garish methods permitted 
with impunity in our easy going metropolis not so 
very long ago, are no longer excusable from the 
absence of any legitimate standard of good taste in 
dress. 

This little volume aims to photograph in its way 
the forms and styles of correct dress for a gentle- 
man moving in polite society. It will give some 
hints, gathered from fresh and reliable sources, as to 
the dress to be worn in the morning, afternoon and 
evening. It will define or suggest, as needs may 
be, the fashion of cloth, of linen, or jewelry, and 
coverings for the head and feet. Such recent 
changes as have been made in the style of dress in 
vogue at weddings, receptions, etc., will be indi- 
cated, and where absolute innovations have been in- 
troduced of late, they will be clearly defined. That 
this manual may serve a useful purpose to many re- 
quiring the reference of a reliable authority upon 
the important subject of correct attire, is the earnest 
hope of the publishers. 




THE DRESS SUIT. 



^ For TIio Bull Rooii^ 



'Sjfi«^=OR this and all other State occasions, occur- 
<;^.Pj ring in the evening, a full dress suit is indis- 
vjli,| pensable. To the casual observer there are 
W \ few perceptible variations in the conventional 
evening dress of the period ; but to the man of 
taste and stjde the gradations of change from year 
to year in the dntails, are plainly discernible. All 
the minor points of the dress suit — neck- tie, properly 
studded shirt-front, collar and cuffs of stylish 
make, etc. — should be carefully arranged, and the 
prevailing mode rigorously observed. If any of 
these details be slighted, the solecism committed 
is sure to be noted by some careful observer. 

MATEK1.\LS. 

In the present season, it may be noted, a radical 
change has been made in the style and material 
used in making up dress suits. Broadcloth and doe 
skin have almost absolutely disappeared, and the 
rich, hard woven diagonals of the last few seasons, are 
slowly but surely giving place to the rough finished 
cheviot or thibet cloths that for two entire seasons 
have ])een the universal rage in England for cutaways 
and frock coats for afternoon wear. Like most new 
fashions in cloths, this cheviot or thibet stulT, has 
been a long time in gaining ground in our country, 
but, now that it has come into general use it seems 



A 



16 FOE THE BALL ROOM. n 

booked for a regular "craze." The material used by 
leading tailors is finer than that made up for street 
or afternoon wear, but it is substantially the same 
thing. It fits the form neatly, but its surface is not 
as firm as the beautiful diagonals, woven expressly 
for dress wear, and these will not be entirely dis- 
placed by the new goods in the favor of gentlemen 
of refined taste 

COAT. 

Of coarse it goes without saying that the pattern 
of the dress coat is the '.' swallovv^-tail," or " claw- 
hammer," so-called, an odd-looking garment by it- 
self, but not destitute of good reasons for its universal 
popularity for full dress purposes. All attempts to 
supplant it or to greatly modify it have failed, and 
it remains the accepted emblem of polite society 
throughout the civilized world. 

The present mode requires that the lapels of the 
coat should be faced with heavy black gros grain 
silk ; this extends usually only to the seam, but if 
preferred, to the extreme edge of the lapel. Either 
is fashionable. 

Tailors wnio consider fine points of tit, line the back 
of the coat with satin and not with the heavy gros 
grain silk used for the facings. The satin sets closer 
and firmer, and the coat slips on easier. 

VEST. 

The vest is cut low, having three or four buttons 
close together. It is made with a collar, and the open- 
ing is more V-shaped than last season, when it was 
well rounded out at the bottom. An inner facing of 
white satin, not projecting beyond the seam, is now 
generally used to conceal the lining as the vest opens 
when the wearer is seated. This facing is quite nar- 
row, not over three inches in width, Vestings are 
usually of the same material as the coat. There is, 
however, a disposition to favor black silk vests, and 
these are made of ottoman, matelasse and moire 
antique. 



FOK rili: HAIJ. KOOM. 17 

A now and ttistcfiil tliiiipj is a vtvst made of fino 
blank worsted and enil)roid«'red witli a beautiful 
vine pattern on the collar, down the front, across 
the bottom and ni)on the pocket welts. The open- 
ing is widest about half way down and curves to a 
decided ])oint at the bottom. There are four buttons 
si)aced two inclies apart. 

White vests whii-h appeared sporadically last 
year are this season quite the mode, and the fancy 
seems to have taken solid hold. They are made of 
pique, of ottoman silk and even of watered silk, and 
are either i)lain or embroidered. 

I NDKIi VEST- 

For protection from the exposure incidental to the 
wearing of the low cut vest an under vest is provided. 
It is worn over the undershirt, has no sleeves, but- 
tons high and is made of silk, lined with chamois, 
fine deerskin, or tiannel. 

TROUSERS. 

The trousers are made somewhat fuller than last 
year, but there is no radical change save in the 
use of the soutache braid down the side. The mater- 
ials are the same as the coat, except when boad cloth 
is used, in which case doeskin is adopted for the 
trousers. 

NECKTIE. 

White lawn is always the correct and un- 
varying neckwear for evening dress. The choice 
of either ties that may be tied by the wearer, 
or of made bows, rests with the man himself. The 
made up bows may now be had so deftly arranged 
as to deceive tl^ sharpest eye, and their use is a 
matter of election. Many good dressers never become 
expert in tying a bow, and so the ready-made device 
has been accepted and is much used. The prevailing 
widths of the tie are from seven eighths to an inch 
and one-eighth, though the extreme is even wider. 
Black ties are now never worn with evening dress, 




FULL DKE8S COLLAKS. 



FOU Tin: HALL llOOM. 19 

save for an occasion at wliicli only ni«!ml)ers of the 
male sex are expected, or when a gentlemen is in 
niournin,!^, and then he may wear black studs and 
sleeve links also. 

COLLAR. 

Three styles of standing collars are allowable ; the 
one with the points tnrned down to a horizontal 
line ; the straight garrote, forming an even band 
about the neck, and the straight standing with a V 
opening. Within these limits one may exercise his 
own preference freely. An exception is made for 
men with extremely short necks. No mandate of 
fashion requires the impossible, and if a man cannot 
wear the standing collar without resting his chin on 
it he may wear a turn down collar, 
sirnrr fkoxt. 

For shirt fronts either linen or Marseilles material is 
used, the latter perhaps preponderating. Being thicker 
than linen it holds the shape of the bosom more firmly, 
but the preference for it is due more to considerations 
of style. Marseilles, or pique, as it is now more 
commonly called, is made in a great variety of effects, 
thus affording a scope for choice which plain linen 
does not. Another element of variability and of 
beauty now enters into the full dress shirt, namely, 
embroidery. Many styles are used, from the slender- 
est pattern of embellishment at the edge of the bosom 
to the all-over work, but the kind most in favor is a 
Tine pattern down the center. There seems to be, 
however, perfect liberty of choice in tliis matter. 

SHIRT STUDS. 

Either one, two or three shirt studs are worn this 
season. The most fashionable outfitters in New 
York advocate either three or two, and if there is 
any arbiter of fashion in this city it may be con- 
ceded It is constituted by these dealers, but for all 
that it must be admitted that outside of New^York, 
shirt fronts with but one stud are immensely popu- 



20 . FOR THE BALL EOOM, 

lar. Tlie only explanation is that the metropolitan 
dictum in this particular is being disregarded else- 
where in the Union. 

CUFFS. 

Square cuffs with link buttons are the invariable 
rule, and a dress shirt should have the cuffs made on 
the shirt. They adapt themselves better to the fit of 
the coat sleeve than adjustable cuffs. 

JEWELRY. 

But little jewelry is seen with the full dress suit. 
The shirt studs, when three or two are worn, should 
be small, and made of mother-of-pearl, plain gold or 
white enamel. When only one is used it is generally 
of a larger size. The link cuff buttons should match 
the shirt studs. To expose the watch chain across 
the vest is not now considered good form. The fob 
chain or ribbon with seals is sometimes seen, but 
the latest and most popular fad is to place the watch 
in the fob pocket, running a steel or silver chain 
connecting with it into the side pocket of the 
trousers. 

GLOVES. 

The gloves should be of a pearl grey tint, with a 
broad stitching of the same shade, or with black 
stitching, and with two buttons. 

HANDKERCHIEF. 

The pocket-handkerchief for use is preferably of 
plain white linen, with a narrow hemstitch, but fine, 
white pongee is also popular. It is carried in the 
coat-tail pocket. 

OVERCOAT. 

The overcoat to be worn with evening dress is a 
long garment, much like an ulster, but has no belt. 
Its length is sometimes relieved and its warmth 
increased by a shoulder cape which descends to 
the elbows. This coat is made of rough cloth in 
pronounced patterns, notably large plaids. It is 
sensible as well as stylish, for the evening dress is 



von TJii; 15AI.I, i:(M).M. 21 

necessarily tliiii and the siKldc^n clian,Lj»; from :i 
lieated ])all room to the iiii^lil, air requires a warm 
wrap. 

A large square of silk or cashmere, called a niu fi- 
ler, is, in severe weather, u usual accoiupauinieut of 
the dress suit. It is i)laced about the neck, the end.s 
being folded across the chest to prevent contact I".;- 
tween the overcoat and shirt front. 

HAT, 

The lieaxl covering should be the regulation black 
silk dress hat, crush hats having completely gone 
out of fashion. 

siiop:s. 

The shoes are patent leather of the congress gaiter 
variety, with elastic sides, black cloth or silk tops. 




^-For Bu$ine55^- 



-Afl 



N the matter of the work-a-day dress Fashion 
is rather more indulgent as to variety of 
shapes and materials than in her demands 
for other and more ornate occasions. And 
yet it is equally as important that the business attire 
of the man who desires to be called well dressed 
shall be perfect in design, in fit and in the harmony 
of all its parts The necessity for this is apparent. 
How can a man maintain a reputation for taste in 
dress if his apparel merely conforms to a fixed model 
upon one occasion while x)lainly violating the ordi- 
nances of good taste when thrown more upon his 
own resources, by the freer choice permitted ? Thus 
it will be seen that the selection of the business suit 
is quite as momentous a task as the procurement of 
the evening attire. 

COAT. 

For this purpose Fashion indicates two general 
styles — the sack and the cutaway frock. Sack coats 
are made to button one, three or four buttons. The 
long roll sack is a graceful garment, but less worn 
in winter than in summer. The vest to go with it 
should have a collar. For other sack coats it is op- 
tional whether to wear a collar on the vest or not. 
The latest sack coat is double-breasted, having five 
buttons on a side and closing pretty high, as it is 



Fou lusiNKsn. 23 

probably intended to be worn withonc an overcoat in 
moderately »'ool weather. It is sqiiare-c ornere I and 
has pocket llaps, except on the breast pocket. Thesfi 
snits are made chiefly of rough cloth— Saxony, tweed, 
cheviot, or something not at all slick. Plain colors, 
stripes and checks are all worn, some very pronounced 
figures being suitable for young men. Sack suits 
should be made of the same pattern of goods through- 
out. The cutaway frock is tiie favorite for business 
use for all ages. It has demonstrated its suitability 
against all other styles. It is neat and manly, yet 
convenient and comfortable. The principal change 
in style tliis season is a lower cut, leaving more 
space on the shirt-front to display the wide four-in- 
hand scarfs now prevailing. The front of this coat 
should be made soft, that the lapel may roll to eight 
or nine inches below its point. There are either 
three or four buttons, they being in the latter case 
closer together, but occupying in the aggregate no 
more space. 

VEST. 

The vest for the cutaway coat may be with or with- 
out collar. If the goods are quite heavy, a collar on 
the vest, though it does not encircle the neck, is apt 
to be rather cumbersome. It is somewhat more 
dressy, however. 

MATEKIALS. 

Cutaway suits may be of the same goods through- 
out, but the "fancy match" is the more stylish 
thing. The coat and vest should be of a quieter 
pattern, even for young men, than is allowable for 
sack suits. The various rough surfaced cloths, 
known briefly as Scotch goods, or, more particu- 
larly, as tweeds, cheviots, bannockl)urns, thibets, 
etc., etc., and what are called wool diagonals, have 
the preference. They allbrd a strong contrast to 
the smoother and finer goods used for dress occa- 
sions, and so exhibit their appropriateness for store 
and street. The diagonals used enrich the figure of 



24 FOR BUSINESS. 

the thin man, while not adding perceptibly to the 
rotundity of the stouter person. As to other pat- 
terns, there is a wide range of choice, neat siripes, 
small checks, dark solid colors, and a long line of 
beautiful mixtures. Scotch greys are always suit- 
able for business purposes. 

TROUSERS. 

The trousers have experienced no great alteration 
of late. For a man five feet eight inches in height 
the rule is knee twenty inches and foot eighteen, 
slightly sliapad over the boot. The material should 
be rough cloth usually striped. A dark, rich stone 
color with a faint stripe is commended. There are 
many variations of grey, drab and warmer color 
stripes, intermingled with black, that are stylish. 
Being in Scot'jh goods the stripes blend into one an • 
other, producing a soft effect. But whatever the 
color or pattern of*- the trousers the greatest care 
should be taken to have them harmonize, by agree- 
able contrast, with the coat and vest, for if a mistake 
be made at this point the whole suit will be a failure. 

OVERCOAT. 

The overcoat to be worn with a business suit is of 
the sack variety. The latest style is a " box " coat, 
which does not take the form but hangs straight 
from the shoulders. It is easy and stylish. It is 
made in kersey or melton, with collar of the same, 
or with the collar faced with velvet, or of fur beaver 
with velvet collar. There are many varieties of fur 
beaver, their names being determined by the style of 
the nap. The Montagnac is the finest, with a pile 
curly and silken. Another overcoat cloth this season 
is a rough goods in wide diagonal. It was used many 
years ago, is now revived and is quite stylish and 
effective. Both double and single breast are used, 
but the latter is preferable. In kersey and melton 
coats the edge is usually stitched ; in fur beavers it 
is finished with a corded braid, let in between the 



ro!: I'.rsiNKss. 'JO 

two tlii(^knesses of clotli. Solid colors and warm 
mixtuii's are used. 

For spring and fall the style of overcoat is a sack, 
out somewhat to tlie form, and mad'^ of li^ht weii,'ht 
kers^n's and meltons, in i)lain and 'nixed colors and 
in ^rey diagonals. 

SIIIliT. 

The shirt is usually i)lain white, hut this is often 
varied, particularly in the warm season, by colored 
percales. Flannel shirts made great progref<s last 
summer in public favor and are clearly destined 
for a great run tlie coming season. Previous to last, 
summer, ilannels had been used only for outing and 
recreation purposes, and the change then made was 
their adoption by many i):.'ople for business wear 
during the heated term. 

COLL A 11. 

The collar most in use is the standing one witli 
points folded back, but much latitude is allowed, no 
rule being observed. 

CUFFS. 

The cuffs are eitlier square with link buttons or 
reversil)le with square or round corners. 

NKCKWEAK. 

Tlic four in hand tie is the favorite, more so than 
ever before, and the made up Teck scarfs are closely 
modeled after its appearance warn tied. 

Flat scarfs are more or less worn and are con- 
sidered as fashionable, especially for winter, though 
the four-in-hand and its imitations are the first 
choice of the vast majority. 

In selecting cravats the important thing is not to 
buy some particular color which may be imagined 
to be the prevailing one, but. to secure such as will 
harmoni/e with the clothing and the complexion. 
Herein is where most men fail, and the difiiculty of 
the task is the measure of its importance. It is 
scarcely desirable that the tie should be like the 



26 FOR BUSINESS. 

suit ; it is better to make an agreeable contrast, but 
whether a strong or a gentle contrast can be best 
determined by experiment. Some complexions will 
endure almost any color, while others are sensitive ; 
as, for instance, a sallow complexion, which is pain- 
fully intensified by the use of green neckwear but is 
relieved and toned up by the deep shades of red, 
purple, etc. 

JEWELRY. 

Little jewelry is worn. The watch chain should 
not be too heavy. The flat scarf should always be 
enriched with a pin. The four-in-hand is largely worn 
with a small pin which is usually stuck in at the 
side near the top. The wearing of the pin is optional 
and as it serves no purpose of utility, because the 
knot in the scarf serves of itself to hold it in place, 
it is by many considered bad taste to wear it, there 
being a law of taste in respect to scarf jewelry that 
it shall only be worn when serving some clear pur- 
pose. Nevertheless the fashion of wearing pins 
with four-in-hand scarfs has come into general use 
and may be accepted as correct. 

GLOVES. 

Gloves of a medium dark tone with black or self- 
stitching or what is called " spear jwints " are suit- 
able in the morning, while fabric gloves are popular 
in cold weather. 

HxVTS. 

The Derby hat is the proper lieadwear for business 
hours. It is neither pretentious of dress nor 
slovenly, but is neat and convenient. 

A novelty just introduced is a dark shade of stone 
color, but a man to wear one of these must be of the 
spick and span style, as any cloudiness of attire will 
be emphasized if it exists in connection with this 
"billy- cock" hat. 



FOU lUrSIXESS. 27 

SIIOKS. 

The shoes are usually of (-alf, and, indeed, it may 
be said they ought always to be, although sonio 
New York swells favor patent leather or varnished 
leather. Over gaiters an; often worn, but for busi- 
ness they must be ol dark cloth. 




BUSINESS SUITS. 



toun<jin^ Dross c^^-^i Ni^Kf XjQ-ixv. 



^^Tf IIE styles in dressing robes for morning wear 
;/&r'; have during the past few years undergone 

V^ radical changes. The old-time figured cash- 
mere stuffs with oriental palm leaves fresco- 
ing a flaming red ground have been relegated to 
obscurity, or have sought the seclusion granted by 
the patch-work quilts of our country cousins. The 
short cloth or velvet dressing sacks, with gorgeous 
facings of quilted colored silk have also substantially 
gone out. The most jiopular and convenient gar- 
ment for morning v/ear, j^receding the completion of 
dressing for the street, is a jilain robe, in cut like 
the old fashioned dressing-gown, or capeless ulster, 
made long like an ulster and secured around the 
waist with a dark cord with or without tassels at the 
ends. A gentjeman not too much pressed for time 
in the morning finds ease and comfort in breakfast- 
ing in this neglige costume. These robes are usually 
made of thick fancy flannel or heavy cloth, and may 
be had in figured material or plain. There are more 
elaborate ncjUt/e costumes for morning undress. 
Mr. Ilichard Mansfield, who-enjoys tlie reputation of 
l)eing perhaps the best dressed man on the stage, 
wears in the morning a ■iicglifje suit of light choco- 
late colored cloth, simply a suit comprising a loose 
coat and pantaloons of the same patterii, secured 




PEESS SACK. 



LOrNclTNO DRESS AND NKlll w KAR. HI 

about the waist with a cord of the samn shade of silk 
and gohl. To tliis Gostiinie a shirt of i)hiin or wdorcd 
silk adds elei^ance and frcodoni. This is i)erhai>s a 
trilie imperial, hut tlie effect upon the early luornini; 
caller of a spick and span costume of this kind is 
somewhat more af^reeabh? than tlie less formal con- 
ventional robe-wrap usually alfected as an undress 
costume. 

THE LOUNGING SACK. 

As lounging is not a custom constitutionally pre- 
valent at all hours of the day, the man of taste, 
after removing his morning robe, will require no 
further consultation with the oracle of fashion in 
dress, so far as this department is concerned, until 
he has finished his routine of daily duties and worn 
the various suits that his business or pleasure may 
have demanded. But when dinner is over and the 
evening is before him at home, for a cosy rubber 
at whist or euchre, or a turn with the cue at the 
billiard table, he dons a lounging coat. This gar- 
ment is, in cut, a short sack, and is made with a 
standing collar, with a full, rolling collar or without 
any collar. It is variously known as a billiard, poker, 
or smoking jacket or house coat, but the distinctions 
are in name rather than in style. The materials used 
for winter wear are heavy silk or wool stidfe, the 
latter in plain colors, heather mixtures or plaid 
effects, and for summer, light, colored flannels, 
Madras and pongee. 

. THE DRESS SACK. 

But if he has worn evening dress at dmner, and 
the occasion is formal enough to require the sem- 
blance of dress during the evening, he must, if 
lie would be dressed as fashion dictates, remove 
his dinner coat and lay out his new evening 
dress sack, or "tailless dress coat," as it is some- 
times defined. There has been a deal of nonsense 
tired off by the uninitiated regarding this inno- 
vation, which is comparatively recent. The reader 



32 LOUN-GING DRESS AND NIGHT WEAR. 

may be assured that tliis garment is not such a 
very formidable novelty after all. It is in fact as 
old as the hills as a garment, althougli it is un- 
familiar in Europe and in the United States. 
The " tailless dress coat " is in fact nothing more or 
less than the East India tea coat which has been 
worn in Calcutta and all the oriental capitals for 
probably a quarter of a century. It was designed 
to meet the requirements of an informal dress gar- 
ment, for use in a warm country where such ex- 
traneous nuisances as tails or anything that added 
to the weight or density of a garment were unde- 
sirable. It is not improbable, indeed, that the 
nobby dress jacket of the Eton school boy suggested 
this convenient and stylish garment to the English 
officials, who first devised it for their use in the 
East to define 'by their dress the social gatherings, 
like general receptions, high teas, and the like, as 
less formal than' the exceptional state occasions, 
where full dress with all regalia is worn. And now 
these " swagger '^ coats, as they appear to us Ameri- 
cans, have become a regular fashion for wear at 
home in the evening, at card parties, private billiard 
bouts and the like. Disciples of Darwin would de- 
fine this garmsnt probably as an evolution of the 
claw-hanmer, and claim it as a triumphant demon- 
stration of the origin of the species. At all events 
the tailless coat seems destined to fall alike upon 
the just and the unjust, but the intrepid dude 
how presumes upon its novelty as warranting its 
appearance at a ball or evening reception will be 
severely frowned upon. It is not intended to re- 
place the claw-hammer for these occasions, and it 
must not be worn at formal affairs. It is simply 
designed to afford a man of taste an opportunity for 
wearing a special and appropriate costume in which 
to meet his friends in a stylish neglige yet dressy 
evening garb. Sitting at a table a gentleman looks 
precisely as if dressed in a neat- fitting claw-ham- 




PA.IAMA Sl'IT 



84 LOUNGING DRESS AND NIGHT WEAR. 

mer, tlie sack being made of the same materials, but 
it is alwavs made with rolling shawl collar with fac- 
ings of silk. The vest, shirt front, collar, necktie 
and other details are precisely as described for full 
evening dress. In the selection of cloth for the tail- 
less coat, diagonal will probably find the most pre- 
ference. 

SLEEPNG COSTUME. 

A word as to a gentleman's sleeping costume may 
be relevant here. For a healthful change from the 
old-time conventional night-shirt made of cotton, 
the pajama has of late years been pretty generally 
introduced. This, as is well known, is in form like 
a French bathing suit, made loose, and of light ma- 
terial. Pongee silk is very generally used for these 
garments; they are also made of light flannels or 
cashmere, madras and priated percales. To gen- 
tlemen sensitive to exposure to draughts the 
pajama recommends itself, and the silk material is 
accredited as desirable from a sanitary point of view. 

THE BATH WRAP. 

The bath wrap is a mantle, ample and liberal in 
proportions, sufficiently large to wind about and en- 
velope the whole figure. It is caught at the neck by 
a hook, button or cord, a girdle encircles the waist 
and it is often embellished with a cowl hanging 
from the collar. Its legitimate use is to provide a 
covering while in transit between the bath-room and 
dressing-room, but it often serves for a lounging 
garment after all the business and pleasures of the 
day are over, in the seclusion of the private apart- 
ment. These come in fancy flannels, Turkish towel- 
ings, and other fabrics. 



^^ 



* Dinner5. 



j:j HE matter of a regulation dress for dinners, 
evening calls and theatres must be adjusted to 
s:^ the customs prevailing in the localities wherfi 
these social indulgences are exercised. In 
New York Cit}- more formality in dress on these oc- 
casions undoubtedly prevails than in Boston or 
Chicago for instance, while in those cities there is 
more formality than in many others. INo sensitive 
man likes to be conspicuous, and if he violates the 
customs of the community in Avhi'di he may be resid- 
ing, either permanently or transiently, he gives him- 
self a prominence that is sure to call forth remark 
that will prove embarrassing. Therefore, in spite of 
any rule of Metropolitan life he is perfectly justified 
in adopting the costume generally in vogue in the 
locality in which he is moving, and if he is in doubt 
ot what this is, he cannot be criticised for displaying 
his ignorance by enquiry. ^ 

In Xew York, largely in Boston, less so, perhaps, 
in Philadelphia and Chicago, and on a receding 
scale in other cities proportioned to their size, for a 
formal dinner the dress is precisely the same as at 
a formal evening; reception or fashionable ball, viz : 
a swallow tail coat, low cut vest, and black trousers 
to match coat, one, two or three button shirt, white 
lawn necktie or bow, square cuffs and link sleeve 



36 DINNERS. 

buttons. The gloves should be as for balls, of a 
delicate pearl color with, preferably, a stitching of 
the same shade. 

For what is known as the " stag " dinner, that is, 
where no ladies are expected, the dress described 
above is sometimes varied by a change in necktie, 
viz : the substitution of black satin for white lawn. 

For an informal dinner, where a gentleman meets 
intimate family friends, and especially where there 
are no guests save himself, he may wear the same 
dress as at an afternoon tea, viz. a double breasted 
Prince Albert or a dark cut-away coat of diagonal 
or rough Saxony cloth, vest to match, cut rather 
low, dark steel colored or stone colored trousers 
with a rich corded stripe in the figure, and four-in- 
hand scarf, preferably of white silk gros grain or 
ottoman, but not a fancy scarf striped or spotted 
with colors. 






f^ 



Evr>nii)6 f i\Il5 



y UCn the same usage as that described for 
hrl-" ^""^*^^s prevails. The dress is influenced 
K^-fV by the character of the occasion. AVhere 
a gentleman is calling to return the cour- 
tesy of a formal invitation previously accepted to an 
afternoon tea or reception, he should call within one 
week after the affair, preferably npon the hostess' 
usual "at home" or regular reception evening, and 
he should wear full evening dress. Or, if he receives 
"at home" cards for Monday evenings in January 
for instance, he will know that the hostess will be 
at home in evening dress on these occasions, and he 
must call in full evening dress, or leave or send his 
card with his regrets if engaged or unable to accept 
the courtesy. 

If, on tlie contrary, he is making an informal call 
without special invitation, and not expecting to find 
other guests, he may, if he prefers, wear his after- 
noon reception dress as he would at an informal 
family dinner, with the addition of gloves of a light 
shade, but not as light or dressy as with full evening 
dress 



# TKe Oper^ ^nJ IKe TKe^Ire. ^^ 



P'T tlie grand Italian or German opera the only 
: proper dress is the full dress snit. In Lon- 
' don no man is admitted to the floor or boxes 
of the opera house if he is not in full evening 
dress, and while there is no such regulation in the 
New York Metropolitan opera house the custom 
prevails almost as universally as in London. 

As to dress at dramatic performances, the lines are 
not so closely drawn. If a gentleman joins a regular 
theatre party, either in a private box or in orchestra 
seats, he should wear full evening dress, and in fact at 
all times full dress is admissible at the theatre in the 
evening, but its absence is of course excusable when 
a gentleman has accepted an informal invitation to 
dinner, and goes dressed in afternoon costume, and 
afterwards invites his friends or is invited to the 
theatre informally. Light clothes are especially 
common and objectionable at the theatre and, indeed, 
in some European theatres no gentleman is admitted 
in the boxes or stalls save in full evening dress. 

Of course the same influences are at work to de- 
termine the costume for the theatre as are described 
in a preceding chapter on dinners. There are 
cities in the Union where a full dress suit would at- 
tract attention and excite remark at the theatre. In 
such, a man should adopt the custom of the town. 



(^ D(xy V(?dJin<^5. # 



''iJ^fUT little latitude is allowed in the outer 
'j.V clothing for this occasion. A choice of two 
'^*-^'\ styles of coat is permitted, the ciit-a-way and 
^ the Prince Albert, with a preference for the 
former distinctly npnarent. At many of tlie most 
fashionable affairs of tliis nature occurring in New 
York this year and last, the cut- a- way coat was worn 
l)y all the members of the bridal parties. In Eng- 
land it is superceding the Prince Albert for all oc- 
casions, and there is no doubt it is in this country 
making rapid progress in the same direction. Never- 
theless the double breasted frock has been too long 
recognized as the only proper garment for dressy 
day entertainments to ])e driven from its supremacy 
without a struggle, and at some of the affairs in New 
York, where matters of this nature have received 
careful attention, it has prevailed in spite of the 
decline that is apparent elsewhere. Ihe cut-away 
coat is unquestionably a great popular favorite for 
all day occasions, but it must be borne in mind that 
the coat for an afternoon canter, for instance, 
though in cut nearly the same as the one provided 
for a wedding, presents differences in fabric and in 
iinish tliat individualize it and mark a distinction. 
These are important points to the man who studies 
the art of dress, and they should be to a certain ex- 



DAY WKDDIN'CS. 41 

tent observetl by all. Whichever r-oat is worn it 
must be black, and of a linished fal)ric, usually 
a fine diagonal. If a cut-a-way, four buttons are 
looked uiK)n as more dressy than three, and the 
buttons must l)e covered eitlier with silk or the ma- 
terial of whicli the coat is made, and never of an un- 
covered substance as liorn, rubber, etc. The Prince 
Albert reaches a little above the bend of the knee, is 
double breasted, is bound witli silk braid and silk- 
faced, lias four buttons, and the materials diagonal 
worsteds. 

THE VKST. 

The vest accompanying either style is of the same 
cloth as the coat; it has live buttons to match those 
on the coat, and the notch collar. It is cut rather 
lower than last season, w^ith tlie intention of giving 
a fuller display of the scarf and shirt bosom. 

TimrsEKs. 
The trousers should be of cassimere, or other fine, 
smooth finished goods in a light ground, relieved by 
a darker stripe or invisible check. The tone of the 
trousers should be on tlie drab or stone color, and 
tills shading should be produced by tlie combination 
of the ground color with the figure eilects, in prefer- 
ence to plain goods. 

THE SCAUF. 

The scarf should be the four-in-hand, of a width of 
two or two and a quarter inches. The fabric should 
be a rich silk gros grain or ottoman, and white. 
Sometimes pale shades of heliotrope, strawberry and 
sky are worn, but white is the prevailing style and 
is recommended as more appropriate than colors. 

(J LOVES. 

Light tan, embroidered on the back in the same 
shade or black, or pearl grey embroidereil in black 
are the two styles of gloves preferred for afternoon 
weddings. The kit r^r is largely the favorite of the 
two. 



42 DAY WEDDINGS. 

JEWELRY. 

For jewelry, a small scarf pin is permissible this 
season. It pierces the scarf at the top of the knot 
well over to the side, or in the centre below the knot, 
but as it does not serve to fasten or secure the knot 
into which the scarf is formed, it offends that canon 
of good taste which abjures scarf jewelry that does 
not really or apparently serve some purpose of utility, 
and which seeks to exclude the scarf pin from all 
forms of neckwear save those in which the ends or 
aprons cross each other, as exemplified in long scarfs 
tied by hand, or in the imitation of them known as 
the " fiat " scarf . 

COLLARS, HAT, SHOES, ETC. 

Only one style of hat is permissible for this occa- 
sion ; it must be the dress silk hat. The shoes should 
be of buttoned calf skin, the collar, standing, with 
either turned points or a Y ojiening, and link cuffs. 

UNIFORMITY OF COSTUME. 

The dress described above is usually adopted by 
the groom, best man, ushers and guests alike. There 
is seldom any variation from it, although there have- 
been notable occasions in New York this season at 
which the groom, or the groom and best man, with 
the view of presenting some contrast, or of dis- 
tinguishing them from the rest of the party, have 
appeared in Prince Alberts and the ushers in cut-a- 
ways, and again where there was a contrast in the 
trousers only, as checks in the one case and stripes 
in the other. 

THE ORDER OF PROCESSION. 

The order of procession for a day wedding, whether 
held in the morning or afternoon, as observed at some 
of the most stylish events in New York this season, 
is as follows : 

The ushers go at the head, in couples. The number 
varies at different events, but the customary com- 
plement is four, though eight is not unusual. Fol- 



DAY W i;i)l)IN<iS. 43 

lowing tliein coin * tlit* ladies of the party, with the 
bridesmaids, if there ai'e any, in the van, and Iwhind 
them the maid of honor alone, if there is hut one, or 
side by side if there are two. Then the bride leaning 
nixjn the arni of her father, or whatever male relative 
or friend, in the absence of the father, may have been 
selected to give her away. The groom, before the 
pi-ocession is fortued, attended by his best man, 
entei*s tlie chiiix;h by the vestry door, and appear.sat 
the chancel rail when he sees the bridal party ap- 
])roaching, joins the bride at the head of the aisle, the 
best man accompanying him throughout. If the 
groom carries his liat in his hand, so as to have it with 
him when he makes his exit, he passes it to the best 
man before gi'eeting the bride, it being lianded to 
him as he turns to leave tlie altar for the march down 
the aisle. After the ceremony the party moves 
out in the reverse order of their entrance, the bride 
and groom at the front, the maids or maid of honor 
next, the bridesmaid? (if there are any) following, 
and the ushers last. Bridesmaids at day weddings 
are not much seen now a-days. 



^^ 



# EYenin^ VeJJii2^5 



JfHERE can be only one style of dress for an 
I evening wedding. It must be tlie full dress 
suit. The complete description of this cos- 
tume in the opening chapter of this work 
gives all the details, and the reader is referred to 
that for particulars. 

There is no variance between the appearance of 
the groom and other gentlemen on such occasions ; 
the dress of one is the dress of all. 

The most fashionable form of ceremony for both 
day and evening is at present modeled after the 
English custom. This is described fully in the 
chapter on Day Weddings, which see. 






■^:- 



The Voclkin^ S^il. 



^Ijr^^OR a promenade in the afternoon, after the 
Mff day's work is finished by the man of ))usi- 
*i*|- i ^^'^io can leave his occnpation early enough, 
"\ or for the "constitutional" of the man of 
leisure, much latitude in the matter of dress is 
allowed. 

COAT. 

He may don a cut-a-way suit cut 6i one piece of 
cloth, or a dark cut-away or Prince Albert coat, with 
trousers in breezy figures of plaids, or stripes, or 
checks, or mixtures. The dark coat may be of a 
heavily ribbed material, diagonal or rougher goods, 
and nmy be black or blue, or any dark shade. 

VEST. 

The vest may match the coat, with or without an 
inner edging of white duck, or it may be of more 
fancy design, blue, maroon or other colored grounds 
dashed with small figures in contrasting colors, of 
which there are innumerable patterns to be had. 

SCAllF. 

The scarf must be either a four-in-hand, a flat, or 
a de .Toinville tied by hand. For colors there is the 
whole range of the outfitters' stock to draw from, 
and a touch of brilliancy in the coloring of the neck- 
wear for the street is commendable. 



46 THE WALKIJ^G SUIT. 

GLOVES. 

Tlie gloves must be of heavy, thick leather of a 
tan shade, with lap seams and only one button 
placed midway of the long wrist, black or self -stitch- 
ing or spear points on the back. 

HAT. 

The hat may be the dress silk or the derby, but 
the former is always dressier and is an essential 
accompaniment of the Prince Albert coat. 

SHOES. 

The shoes shoald be laced or buttoned calf or 
enameled leather, and may be covered by over- 
gaiters of white or mauve shades of plain cloth. 

OVERCOAT. 

It is the fashion to take your exercise without an 
overcoat, and in severe weather a heavy undervest 
of Hannel or chamois skin is adopted rather than 
support the weight of the outside garment. 

The walking overcoat is made of smooth beaver 
or elysian, cut single breasted, liy front with plain 
edges and has a velvet collar. 

The whole costume should be set cn. with a bout- 
onniere of white or colored flowers, and the swing 
of a walking stick should keep time with the rhythm 
of the step. 







WALK1N<; SL'IT. 



Jlflernoon %cepIion 



HE distin^nishinf!: diflference between morn- 



[«r! ing (or business) and afternoon dress, lies 
mainly in the delicacy of the accompani- 
ments to the garments worn rather than in 
any radical difference in the clothes that a man 
of taste dons in the afternoon. Gail Hamilton 
not so many years ago wrote that she found to 
her surprise that the most expensive clothes, the 
most absolute compliance with the cut and shape 
in vogue, was not enough, when she began to go 
into Washington society. There must be added, 
style ! And herein lies the difference between the 
man of taste and the man who conventionally 
follows merely the prevailing novelties. The man 
of taste will go home after bank hours, and in pre- 
paring himself for an afternoon reception, will 
change his clothes from boots to hat' He will put 
on this season pantaloons shading on a dark 
steel or stone color, the goods may be woven in a 
rich ribbed pattern if desired. They look well and 
set well, and the pantaloons must be fresh from the 
tailor's pressing. The coat must be of dark cloth, 
the plain rough Saxony or Vicuna cloth, or one of 
the new wide wale diagonals, a cut-a-way with three 
or four buttons cut rather low in the neck, with vest 



Arrr.KXOdX kk< kpiion. -10 

rut as low, allow in,LC ample spac»* for tlu; knot of :i 
four in-haiul scarf, to show a half-inch at least above 
the top button of the vest. He may, if he prefers 
it, wear a doul)le-l)reaste(l Prince Albert, it is proper 
enough, and for elderly prentlemen is quite the 
vogue. But the cut-away coat has, (iuiinic the past 
two years, nearly driven out the Prince Albert for 
all occasions where it was formerly worn. 

The scarf should be a four-in hand, the color must 
be ligiit, the fabric silk ; white ottoman is the lead- 
ing favorite, but it is varied by high tints in the same 
material as heliotroiie, sky blue, etc. 

This may be worn with a small scarf pin, or with- 
out a pin. Tile gentleman of taste avoids all un- 
necessary jewelry. Bric-a-brac is very well upon a 
drawing-room mantel. It is not seemly upon the 
person, in excess. 

The overcoat should be of dark material, match- 
ing as nearly as possible the under cut a- way coat. 
It may be worn with a facing according to the fancy 
of tlie wearer, and this season, facings are alTected 
very generally wherever they are permissible. 

The gloves are either pearl with black stitching — 
and here is a chance for a nice distinction, dressy 
men sometimes making a point of wearing self 
stitching for the evening and black for the afternoon 
— or a light tan with black stitching. 

A silk drnss hat is worn in line weather, a Derby 
on stormy afternoons. 

The boots should be patent leather. 

As apologies cannot be offered for any dereliction 
in these particulars, they serve as silent witnesses 
to the good taste and well-bred care of the wearer, 
and seeming trilles go a long way in the im- 
pression a gentleman makes by being ])roperly 
dressed, for the simple reason that at an afternoon 
reception the company is mainly composed of ladies 
who are e.Kacting to an accute degree in line i)oints 
of effect in dress. 



50 AFTERNOON RECEPTION. 

In jewelry very fine gold cliains of tiny links, 
more like a lady's neck chain, are now worn for the 
first time in years. They are dressy, and point a be- 
coming suit most admirabb^ Chains of the regula- 
tion pattern are of course always worn, but the huge 
sea serpent variety, or ocean steamer cables in gold, 
are no longer permissible. 

For the cuffs neat link buttons are correct, and in 
scarf pins something delicate, that seems designed 
for use to secure the scarf, not to garishly ornament 
it, is desirable. 



-^ h'd.'wn Teni2i5. ^ 



4^, 

young lady, returning 
.rmiida, brought home 



:^if(.X the Spring of 1875, a y* 
i^ [ from a winter trip to Bui 



^ tlie first lawn tennis outfit that had been 
brought into the United States. From that 



small beginning sprang the Staten Island Lawn 
Tennis Club, and lawn tennis clubs without number 
in a very short time. 

In treating of lawn tennis, nowadays, one becomes 
conscious of touching the sympathies of a very large 
and very representative part of Athletic America. 
Although introduced into the United States so 
recently, so widely has the pastime spread that it 
would now be far easier to enumerate the places 
where it is not indulged in, than where it is. It is 
pre-eminently a social sport, a mildly athletic recre- 
ation in which both sexes may indiscriminately 
participate. 

To this desirable characteristic it is doubtless in 
no small degree indebted for its popularity and 
rapid development. 

While duly conscious of short comings in many 
respects we claim that social science has reached a 
truer and more rational stage of development with 
us than with most nations. For this reason, in the 
choice of out-door recreations our natural preferences 
always incline toward those pastimes suital>le alike 



52 LAWN TENISIS. 

for ladies and gentlemen. This explains wLy lawn 
tennis lias so quicldy come to find the army of its 
votaries larger than that of any other out-door 
summer sport. 

Whenever ladies and gentlemen meet in friendly 
contest on the field of out-door sport, dress becomes 
a very important and interesting branch of the sub- 
ject. In this critical and inventive a^re, it was 
but natural that a bright and graceful sport like 
lawn tennis, should attract to itself a correspond- 
ingly bright and graceful costume. 

The evolution of lawn tennis costume has finally 
developed into the almost universal adoption of 
bright-striped cap and blazer, and white flannel 
trousers. The blazers worn by the gentlemen of a 
lawn tennis club, should be patterned in stripes or 
figures of the club colors. Thus, for example, the 
colors of the Staten Island Lawn Tennis Club being 
black, blue and yellow, the stripes of the members' 
blazers would be alternately of these colors. Whether 
the stripes are broad or narrow is a matter of indi- 
vidual taste, but they should always be perpen- 
dicular. Horizontal stripes are too unpleasantly 
suggestive of a peculiar stripe of gentlemen with 
curtailed liberty, which few of us care to emulate or 
take for our pattern. Innovations there are in the 
shape of checked or dotted blazers ; but the strii)ed 
patterns are likely to remain the favorite. 

For head-dress, the peaked cap, matching the 
blazer in color, pattern and material, is the more 
correct for the lawn tennis player, and as such is 
adopted by the clubs. Individual tastes outside the 
clubs, however, have embraced several different pat- 
terns, the more favorite being the well-knoAvn Tam- 
o'-Shanter and the broad brimmed, cavalierly felt 
'' tennis hat" of cardinal red. 

The trosuers should be of white flannel, full 
length, sufficiently loose to afford free and easy 
motion, and yet, not so ample as to ajjpear baggy. 



LAW N I I:N MS. 3'.i 

'Pliis sryleof trousers has almost entirely siipercedfd 
knickerbockers, althoni^h sonie few lag^^anis in tlin 
rear of i)ro^ress still clin^ to tlie latter. Tliey should 
be supjK)rte(l by an Kn;j:lish silk tennis belt, or a silk 
sash— never with susi)en(lcrs The correct tiling Is 
to have the belt striped and in color to match tho 
blazer. More latitude in regard to color is allowable 
with the sash, but a gentleman of taste will always 
avoid anything startling and conspicuous in belt or 
sash. Not too much of the tasseled end of the sash 
should be displayed, but three or four inches hang- 
ing at the left hip is not in bad taste. 

The shirt should be of soft French flannel, (f 
striped pattern, and in color somewhat lighter than 
the blazer. Some club members have carried their 
enthusiasm for their colors to the length of wearing 
shirts to match cap and blazer, the only difference 
being in the width of the stripes. This, I considei' 
rather over-doing the matter, and, moreover, spoils 
all harmony of the costume. The shirt should con- 
tain a watch-pocket on the right breast and a larger 
one on the left. It should have a turn-down collar; 
and a striped muggadore is the proper form of neck- 
tie. The muggadore should harmonize with the 
blazer in color, but may ])e of different pattern. 

As tennis is a summer pastime, the underclothing 
should be very light. There is nothing better than 
the netted under-garments of silk or lisle thread, 
material which admits of free ventilation and is, at 
the same time, absorptive. 

Low shoes are always worn in playing tennis. 
They are made of canvas or soft leather, and j^rovided 
with rubber soles. Leather soles should never be 
allowed on a tennis court as they are too hard, and 
soon gouge and impress the smooth surface to its 
ruin. The soles must be of some soft, yielding 
material, either rubber or the new felt soles recently 
introduced. 

The "sweater," a heavy, soft wool Jersey, is 



54 LAWN TENNIS. 

sometimes used by professional players, to pull on 
at the close of a heated game, to avoid catching cold. 
Like all athletic costumes, the lawn tsnnis dress is 
allowable at informal club balls and receptions. 







J-AWX TE>'NIS SUIT. 



Bicycling. 



jrM HE popular and growing sport of bicycling 
•Olil tas now reached the stage where it may prop- 
%;#. erly be regarded as one of the permanent 
institutions of the country. As such it be- 
comes entitled to the intelligent consideration of the 
public at large, for gathered in its ranks are already 
some sixty thousand young men of a well-to-do, de- 
sirable class. 

Having looked about and decided upon the style 
of wheel he prefers, the young gentleman who 
aspires to become a wheelman next turns his atten- 
tion to the equally important subject of dress. 

It seems to have been universally accepted that 
the proper dress for bicycling is knee breeches, short 
jacket, cap or helmet, ribbed stockings and low 
shoes. This costume sprang into existence contem- 
poraneously with the modern bicycle itself, as 
though, by the eternal fitness of things, it formed, 
perforce, an integrant part of the centaurish trinity 
of athlete, costume and wheel. 

Only in matters of detail, such as color, material, 
etc., do clubs and individual riders ever venture to 
display independent preferences, and these are now 
far less conspicuous than in the earlier stages of 
the sport. American cyclers have arrived at the 
sensible and settled conviction that anything in the 



incYci.iNc}. Tj? 

nature of theatrical display in tlu.'ir dress is iinlui- 
coinin.:::. 

The writer's preference of color and material for a 
cycling costume lias always been blue ser^e, with 
stockin;;s and cap to match. I5nt, on the other 
hand, the Uniform Committee of the League of 
American Wheelmen have adopted for the regula- 
tion costume of that organization a snulf-coloretl 
material which is claimed to be less sensitive to the 
dust and soil of tlie road tlian blue serge. The 
choice of color, however, is ]»ureh' a matter of in- 
dividual taste. 

Next to the skin the wheelman should always 
wear under- clothes of silk or wool, or, better still, a 
material composed of half silk and half wool. The 
drawers should fit as snugly to the form as a pair of 
tights, so that any dialing from the saddle may be 
expended on them instead of on the rider's skin. 
Another advantage of tight- fitting drawers is that 
the breeches may then be worn sufficiently loose to 
avoid the ungraceful, jockey ish suggestion that 
comes of skintight riding breeches. 

Breeches should always be made double seated, 
but the extra seat should always be of the same 
material as the body of the garment, and never of 
leather, buckskin or other foreign substance. They 
should button or buckle snugly just below the knee, 
and should be sustained by a belt of some solid, in- 
conspicuous color. A broad belt of brown leather 
with a neat clasp or nickel buckle makes a very 
good belt for a wheelman. The only pockets in the 
breeches should be at the hips, as knife. i)urse, keys, 
etc., in front pockets are a source of annoyance and 
irritation when riding on a bicycle. 

For a coat, the choice is between the well known 
Norfolk jacket and a plain, semi-military jacket, 
with a lov,', upright collar. 

Tli3 jacket should alwaj'^s have the watch pocket 
placed middling high up on the breast, to avoid the 



58 BYCT CLING . 

annoyance of tlie chain catcliing on the rear corners 
of the saddle when mounting. 

The riding-shirt should be of some neat woolen 
pattern, and provided with small breast pockets. 
When the coat is habitually worn buttoned up, the 
best effect about the neck is obtained with a collar- 
less shirt and a stand-up white collar. This collar 
should be of zylonite or linene, either of which is 
equal to the ordinary linen collar in appearance, with 
the great advantage that they withstand perspiration. 
For ordinary country touring, where comfort is t!ie 
first consideration and appearance the second, then 
the woolen shirt should have a turn-down collar, and 
neckwear of the sailor-knot pattern be worn. 

The most becoming head-dress for wheelmen is the 
semi-military cnp with the drooping, crescent peak. 
The cap should be of a color to match the uniform. 
The stockings should be woolen, neatly ribbed, 
matching the coat and breeches in color, or very 
nearly so, and fastened with garters out of sight 
above the knee. To be d' accord the shoes should be 
of russet leather if the uniform is light, and black if 
the uniform is dark. 

With these little niceties of detail attended to, the 
bicycle uniform is permissible in lieu of the dress 
suit at nearly all club balls and receptions, like the 
regimentals of an army officer. Some wheelmen 
have even appeared at club hops in knee-breeches 
and swallow-tail coats. Although the wheelman 
thus arrayed certainly comes very near to Oscar 
Wilde's ideal, it is thought in very bad taste never- 
theless; quite as much so, as if an army officer were 
to appear in dress coat and regimental trousers. It 
should be either one thing or the other. 



-:i'^ Oceiin S^^^ni^^i^S * 



'••""if' '^ ^^^ formerly the custom for a man to wear 

i^jj: the oldest and shabbiest clothes he could rake 
,ii(y^ and scrape together on an ocean voyage; for 

*0' the reason, probably, that he was sure to 
replace them by new and cheap English clothes be- 
fore his return voyage. 

Within the past two or three years, however, since 
the epoch of the ocean greyhounds in the way 
of fast steamers, a marked improvement in the 
dress of travelers to Europe has been perceptible. 
And now shabbily dressed men are the exception on 
board ship. 

This is all very natural, for the steamers' equip- 
ment, although by no* means ideal yet, is vastly 
improved, and men's dress must keep pace with the 
times even in this direction. The most marked 
characteristic of men's steamer dress is the almost 
uniform adoption of the Inverness cape coat, for the 
overcoat. This, by recent custom, is of a dark 
shade, is an invisible check pattern, and, set olT with 
a tennis cloth cap of the same material, the wearer 
looks at least properly encased. 

Uis next "layer" of dress may be a Norfollv 
tourists coat of gray or drab tweed, or Scotch mixed 
suiting of the same cut of coat with trousers and vest 
to match. For shoes, light leather base ball shoes 



CO OCEAlSr STEAMERS. 

are very generally worn, and these, with a broad 
scarf of thin silk of dark colors, i3eacock blue, or on 
that shade, complete a. fitting costume for morning 
on board. In the afternoon, before dinner, a change 
is usually made, and the well-dressed man puts on, 
as he would in town, his dark cutaway coat and vest, 
and his four-in-hand tie, and he may change his 
pantaloons to a darker shade if he has the time and 
the inclination. 

A dress suit is seldom or never worn on ship-board 
unless some extraordinary occasion arises. If a 
gentleman is to take part in a concert or reading on 
board, be he professional or non-professional, it 
gives his company and himself a comfortable feeling 
to distinguish the event, by dressing in his claw- 
hammer coat and all its accompaniments. 

Occasionally a formal dinner is given on a steamer, 
but this is unusual, and it must be a very formal 
affair to demand as full dress as a similar occasion 
ashore. As to choice in steamer dress, blue 
yachting cloth, or blue fiannel, is frequently worn, 
and there is an approj^riateness about the material 
and color of these cloths that is especially attractive 
on ship-board, particularly if it happens to surround 
a well- formed man with a clear complexion. That a 
blonde man looks better on ship-board in such a 
suit, goes without saying, and as to the coat, a 
Norfolk, or a "reefer " is the correct cut when either 
of these blue cloths is used. Tweed suits or Scotch 
cloth suits, with the regulation sack coat, are always 
in order in the morning for those to whom they are 
becoming. 

Shoes for steamer use need not be as heavy-soied 
for lazy men, but active walkers will find heavy soles 
less fatiguing than a light welted one. For a steamer 
outfit, an India rubber gossamer coat, or a double 
mackintosh is desirable; also, India rubber shoes 
for wet weather. A steamer-rug, or a heavy blanket 
shawl is as indisj)ensable as a steamer chair. Then 



OCKAX STKAMKKS. 01 

a neck-niulll«>r, warm and substantial, is worth takin;:^ 
along "when the breezes blow." Gloves of various 
kind come in handily, according to the temi^erature, 
and a rubber covering for the hat is very convenient. 
In fact, in the way of hats, one shoidd take a cloth 
tennis caj^ for morning wear, a Derby for afternoon ; 
a cloth croquet caj), a little thicker than the tennis 
cap for colder days and India rubber coverings; and if 
traveling in summer, there are times wh^n a macki- 
naw straw hat, a Panama, or a manilla, feels about 
right on a calm day in a blazing sun. In summer, 
too, on such a day, a complete white duck suit or 
one of white flannel, ("whites," as the English define 
such a dress,) looks well and feels as well as it looks, 
or a black or blue reefer or sack is often worn with 
white trousers and vest ; or the vest may be dispensed 
with where a reefer is worn. 

Then a turban smoking-cap of black silk may be 
put in the pocket for those votaries of the weed who 
liaunt the smokers' cabin from morning to night, and 
grudge even this scanty head-covering in the close 
and heated atmosphere of this social resort. Noth- 
ing loud in the way of dress is permissible to a 
gentlemen on shipboard. A man who puts on a 
lawn tennis suit is as wide of the mark as if he had 
donned a Sing Sing convict's dress, and alTects his 
company in a kindred way. For sensitive men, 
who take cold readily, wristers are desirable. 
Flannel yachting shirts are worn with the morning 
suit in medium weather, and in fact at all times in 
the morning if found becoming. They are common 
sense in such a place, and with the loose bow-tied 
scarf look even more appropriate than the conven- 
tional white linen-bosomed shirt, which, however, 
should be worn with the afternoon coat at dinner. 

As to high silk hats, no returning voyager will be 
without one, as the street dress is invariably donned 
by the experienced traveler an hour or s j before 
landing. 



^I'c Hunting. ^^ 

%^ ox - HUNTING is a sport that is better known 
r/««jf :| in England than in the United States. Nor 
llji I is it ever likely to make much headway here, 
'" ''k for the conditions of American social life are 
all against its propagation. It has long been con- 
sidered the most royal of out-door sports, and was 
always a prerogative of the rich and aristocratic 
classes of the community. 

Hunting game on horseback has been a favorite 
pastime in England from the earliest ages. King 
Arthur, he of the round table, was an enthusiastic 
huntsman; the Norman Kings were all "hunting 
mad." Later on we learn that Queen Elizabeth was 
a " notable huntress," and still later we lind that the 
Duke of Wellington was so passionately devoted to 
the chase that he took a pack of hounds with him 
on some of his European campaigns. During the 
Peninsular war, the gallant duke always kept a pack 
of fox-hounds at his head -quarters, and " chased the 
fox as vigorously as he did the French." 

The iH'oper costume for the hunter is the ordinary 
tall silk hat, scarlet coat, knee breeches and top- 
boots. The hat must always be provided with a hat 
guard, a strong silk cord fastened to the hat, and 
tied at the other end to the peg-loop of the coat. 
This insures the easy recovery of the hat, if blown 



III-NTINC. 03 

or knocked olT w hen tukiii;^ a lied.i^e or fence, as 
very frequently happens. 

Tiift coat should he a hright scarlet cut-a-way of 
smooth, solid cloth, and lined throughout with 
Ihinnel of neutral tint and line texture. It should 
have a turned-down collar of the same material as 
the hody of the coat, and should he provided with a 
handkerchief pocket on the left hreast. The lining 
of the sleeves should terminate in llannel spring culTs 
that fit tightly around the wrist and exclude wind 
and dust from thft sl-^eves. 

The waistcoat is a special feature of the fox- 
hunter's costume. In the case of clubs, every 
gentleman rider should wear the same pntterned 
waistcoat. It should De of some strikingly rich 
color and material, orange, green or blue silk, 
checked Kersey, or something of that nature. Every 
pocket in the waistcoat should have large (laps, and 
it should b3 lined with chamois leather or flannel. 

The buttons of both coat and waistcoat should 
bear the initials or monogram of the club. Un- 
attached huntsmen, too, should always wear some 
special figure or monogram on their buttons, a fox- 
liead, hound-head, or other emblem of the sport. 

The knee breeches should be made to button fairly 
tight about the knees, but should be loose every, 
where else. The material of the breeches may be 
wliiie-tanned buckskin, cloth buckskin, or white 
velvet cord, and should be substantially strapped. 
All breeches should be provided with a continuation 
about six inches long, and which must be made so 
as to button closely around the calves. On the side 
of the knee, just above the boots, the conservative 
huntsman, who takes pride in following the pre- 
cedents of the six)rt, should fasten a tiny buckskin 
bow. 

The watch should be carried in the breeches fob, 
where, in case of a cropper, it is less likely to get 
injured than if carried in a breast pocket. 



04 HUISTTIKG. 

The over-shirt of the fox-hunter should be of 
French or English wool, but should always be worn 
with a linen collar. The neckwear should be a neat 
tie bearing appropriate figures, as fox-heads, dog- 
lieads, or brushes, and should be embellished with a 
horseshoe pin. 

The huntsman must wear top-boots of polished or 
patent leather, the upper portion of which, however, 
must be either white, cream-colored or brown. The 
tops of the boots should reach a point where four 
knee-buttons of the breeches are left visible, no 
more, no less. 

This is one of those little niceties of the fox- 
hunters' tory conservatism that is not to be lightly 
ignored, unless one wishes to be considered other 
than a thoroughbred, than which, for a true hunts- 
man, there could be no more ignominious dis- 
tinction. 

■ White buckskin gloves are always to be worn, and 
must fit as perfectly' as society kids. 

Add to these details, wnip and spur, and the ideal 
fox-hunter is before us in all his picturesqueness 
and his fine old crusted conservativeism. 



^^>^ 



<^ C^nooin^. o 



M'lIILE lawn tennis, cricket, cycling, and, in- 
' deed, almost all of the sports now familiar 
^^^^y- ' to US, were introduced into America from 
other lands, cana^ng forms a noteworthy 
exception. When the pale-faced voyagers discovered 
America, they, at the same time, discovered, the 
American canoe and the American canonist. The 
Indian may therefore very properly claim to be the 
father of American cananng. 

In treating of the costume of the cannoist, how- 
ever, we shall be under the necessity of ignoring to a 
great extent the noble redskin, but yet, not entirely, 
as will l)e seen at the end of the chapter. 

The ideal costume tor the cancinist consists of Xor- 
folk jacket, knickerbockers. Tarn O'Shanter hat, 
woolen- stockings and low shoes. The most service- 
able and ajipropriate color for the jacket and knick- 
erbockers is a neutral grey; the Tarn O'Shanter and 
stockings should also be grey, but of a deeper shade. 

This neutral grey, trimmed neatly with black 
braid, is the regulation uniform worn by the Mohi- 
can Canoe Club, one of the most prominent clubs in 
the country, and is universally conceded to be the 
best and most serviceable color. 

The material of the f-ancrist's dress should always 
be woolen, of flexible, open texture;. as in the exer- 



bb CANOEING. 

cise of paddling- elasticity is very necessary, and a 
close, perspiration confining garb is especially to be 
avoided. 

In the matter of nether garments, the distinction 
between knickerbockers and knee-breeches should 
not be lightly overlooked. With the canoeist the 
knee breeches, fitting somewhat tightly about the 
thighs and knees, is far less suitable than the genu 
ine knickerbockers, which gives perfectly unre- 
strained knee action, and, moreover, harmonizes 
better wdtli the Tarn O'Shanter. 

The knickerbockers should be supported by a silk 
tennis sash or kammerbund, that passes twice or 
more around the waist. Owing to the peculiar atti- 
tude and movement of the canoeist while paddling, 
the soft, yielding folds of the silk sash is much better 
than the somewhat rigid outlines of a belt and 
buckle. 

Merino underwear and wool^^n overshirt of some 
inconspicuous striped pattern, chosen to match har- 
moniously with the knickerbockers and jacket^ 
should be worn Everything the canoeist wears, save 
his necktie and kammerbund, should be of wool, 
pure and simfJe, owing to his ever jJ^esent liability 
to get a wetting. 

Ihe overshirt should have a turn-down collar, and 
a pocket on the right breast. The watch should 
never be carried in the breast-pocket of the shirt, 
because that would expose it to danger when the 
canoeist is engaged in carrying his craft over a port- 
age, or lifting it into the club-house. The watch 
should be carried in a fob in the knickerbockers, 
and should bts protected against water by a neat, 
oiled-silk case. 

The neckwear of the canoeist should be a silk hand- 
kerchief of some solid, dark color, tied in a neat, 
;quare bow. No long ends should be left to flop 
ibout in the breeze, as they will prove troublesome 
in handling th^ sail, by getting caught in the lines 



( AN()i:iy<!. C7 

or lliq^itin^ in the oyrs. Tlie club badge, reduced to 
]>ri)per si/r, may, very appropriately, bo worn in the 
scarf as a i)in. 

Shoes of tlie ordinary atldetie ])att,ern sliould 1)0 
worn, but always of material that will not be ruiiu'd 
by getting wet. fcioft, oil-tann»'d russet leather for 
the uppers, and soles of rubber, are the correct thing. 
^lo iron pegs should be allowed in the shoes, for the 
same obvious reasons. If, aftei: a club meet or 
regatta, a ball or reception is to take place, the 
candust must always carry among his stock of extras 
a pair of patent leather pumps, as his canaMng shoes 
nro very likely to be wet and stained. With this 
addition to his regulation canoe costume he may 
enter the ball room or reception room with impunity. 

An oilskin suit is always to be numbered among 
the effects of the cambist, and a rubber bag in which 
to carry extra clothes. These are stowed away out 
of sight in the water-tight compartment at the bow 
of the canoe. Among these extras, also, should be 
found a good, thick " sweater," to slip on Avhen the 
canoeist changes from paddling to sailing, if the 
weather is chilly 

While the above may be considered the proper 
costume of the canceist, great latitude is indulged in 
and freer rein given to individual whims and prefer- 
erences than in most other branches of sport. In 
deference to the paint and feathers of their Indian 
brethren, and the traditions and associations that 
couple the two together, the canwists, at their meets 
and regattas, sometimes adopt most fantastic cos- 
tumes. Some are gotten up as Indians, out and out, 
feathers, tattooing and mocassins, all complete. 
Others endeavor to outdo one another in the extrav- 
agance of their dress and grotesqueness of api)ear- 
ance in general. 



5IiOotin$ 



^pl^:, HOOTING game is a practice almost as old 
•^dl' ^^ ^^® history of man. Nimrod was " a 
^^^- mighty hunter before the Lord," and Esau 
was devoted to the pursuit of game. Whether 
these ancient followers of the chase were sportsmen, 
or merely pot-hunters, however, the Old Testament 
historians have not seen fit to explain. The genuine 
sportsman has in all ages been a product of civiliza- 
tion. The ideal pot hunter is always found among 
the savagest people, and the ideal sportsman 
among the most civilized. There is little in 
common between the two, beyond the mere 
fact that both are intent on killing game. 

As the shooting season, proper, comes in the 
coldest and more blustering seasons of the year, the 
correct dress of the sportsman is of a most substan- 
tial character. The true sportsman is at all times 
fully prepared for unpleasant developments in the 
weather, and he often enjoys better sport on a cold, 
rainy day than at any other time. Especially is this 
the case in the popular sport of duck-shooting, or 
the pursuit of rail and snipe. 

The sportsman cannot load himself down with 
extra clothing, consequently that which he does wear 
must be of a character to resist rain and cold. 

The best shooting jackets are made of pliant and 



■sii(K)Ti\(]. 69 

s!n()()tli-lannt'(l do,!i:-skin, or liorso hide, and slioiiM 
be lined witli (dianiois Itiather or Afackinaw blanket. 
It should be donblo-lireastcl, the len^'th of an ordi- 
nary pea-jacket, or, if anytliliii;, a trille shorter, and 
should be made to fit and button snu.i^ly about the 
throat. The jacket should be i)lentifidly supyjlied 
with ])0ckets of various sizes, as many as ten beint^ 
sometimes exacted of their outfitter by experienced 
s[)ortsmen. These pockets come in handy for carry- 
iivj; jack-knife, ^un-cleaninf;^ tools, matches, ci^ld 
lunch, brandy flask, etc.. and the larger ones at the 
back, as temporary receptacles for smaller game, 
such as quail or snijie. 

A waistcoat of the same material, though some- 
what lighter, should be. worn, the front of which 
may be provided with rows of little pouches for the 
insertion of cartridges. 

The ideal nether garment of the sportsman is 
tightish fitting trousers of the same material as the 
jacket, and should be worn with leather leggings. 
Knee-breeches, however, are preferred by some, with 
leggings that meet the breeches in the bend of the. 
knees. With the trousers, one may wear leggings 
that come half-way up the thighs, or those that only 
come up to the knee. In shooting over marsh-land 
among tall reeds or grass, of course the hii:)-legging3 
would be more suitable than the others. 

In such matters tlie sportsman is always governed 
by his common sense and conception of the fitness 
existing between his dress and his surroundings. 
Whenever the shorter leggings are worn, they may 
be of stifTer leather than the hip- leggings. 

Suspenders should never be worn by the sports- 
man ; the trousers should be sustained by a stout 
buckskin belt. A cartridge belc is very appropriate, 
answering at once the double purpose of carrying 
ajumunition and supporting the trousers. In case the 
cartridge belt is tvorn beneath the coat, however, 
and the coat is worn buttoned u^), a few cartridges 



70 SHOOTING. 

slionld always be ready to liand in tlie riglit-liand 
pocket of tlie coat. 

The head-gear of the sportsman should be a cap 
with a double visor; the shorter visor in front 
shielding the eyes and the larger one protecting the 
neck from the rain. The material of the cap should 
be identical with that of the suit. 

The foot-gear of the sportsman is a very important 
item. It should be water-tight, high- topped shoes, 
or, in lieu of shoes and leggings, top boots. The 
best material is oil-tanned russet leather, heavy but 
soft, and the soles should be both broad and thick, 
and always hand-sewed, never nailed or pegged. If 
shoes are worn the tongue must be sewn to the 
uppers quite to the top, and must be soft and of 
ample width, to accommodate itself to the putting 
on and off of the shoe, and to fold neatly about the 
instep when the shoe is laced. The top-boots should 
be provided with lacing at the instep and part-way 
uj) the sides, so as to unlace for easy pulling on, and 
then to lace for a snug fit. 

The under-garments of the sportsman should 
always be of woolen material, heavy or light, as the 
conditions of health and weather suggest. 

The game-bag should be slung with the strap over 
the right shoulder and the bag resting against the 
left hip. Beside the pocket it should have an outer 
addition of twine netting. This net forms an airier 
receptacle for the accommodation of game in warmer 
weather when the inner pouch would be too confining. 

Where lighter material is desired than those 
advised, the same pattern of garments may be 
made of corduroy or brown duck. In a warm 
climate, such as Florida or California, leather gar- 
ments would be altogether too warm. In this matter 
the sportsman would, of course, be governed by 
common sense. 



I 



* Funordl^ * 



-rf.^ 



N men's dress at funerals, the relation or asso- 



it»lj: elation of the mourner is to be especially con- 
J^}^ sidered. In the loss of a near member of one's 

•'g own family, a "weed" of crape, reaching to 
within about one inch of the crown of the hat is 
worn. For a more distant relative the band is made 
smaller, according to the closeness of the relation- 
ship. Societies, Grand Army Posts, etc. frequently 
order that a band of crape shall be worn upon the 
left arm in token of respect to a dead comrade ; and 
this mark of bereavement should be worn as stipu- 
lated by the resolution in the form passed. 

In the case of societies, the ordinary dress remains 
unchanged, except upon tlie day of the funeral. 
Then all members of societies should dress in the 
uniform, or regalia of the society, if it have such ; or 
if not, in plain black clothes if possible, wearing 
black hats and black gloves. Tall silk hats are pre- 
ferable to Derby s on such an occasion. 

At a funeral of a prominent lawyer which occurred 
in December, several societies, of which the deceased 
was a member, were in attendance. The church was 
almost a solid mass of men, uniformly dressed and 
gloved in black. But there was one exception; a 
well known lawyer, who has also been a physician, 
from haste in dressing, or from some carelessness, 



72 FUNEKALS. 

liad put on a pair of worn, tan-colored gloves, 
aad lie stood out against the sombre background of 
f anereal black like a calcium light. 

At all funerals, friends attending should, if possi- 
ble, wear black — a cut-a-way or frock coat, with 
black diagonal or corkscrew pantaloons, or of a 
shade bordering on black in tone — and, as indicated, 
black gloves are indispensable. The best neckwear 
is a plain, black gros- grain four-in hand tie. If any 
jewelry is worn, a very small pearl scarf-pin is cor- 
rect. A gentleman in mourning for one of his family 
should at all times wear black neckwear in some 
shape, either a four in- hand, a bow-tie, or a liat 
scarf; and no gold jewelry whatever. He may wear 
jet studs, or white porcelain bordered with black. 
Handkerchiefs, black bordered, are no longer desir- 
able for gentlemen in mourning. 



^•^ 



Eque5tri<xn$ --^ 



f'.N speaking of equestrianism and its origin 
: one would be confronted with a far easier task 
Jt^ slioukl he confine liimseif to America. It is 

^'t not difficult to turn the pages of history back 
to the time of De Soto or Cortez and there find the 
aborigines of this country filled with amazement at 
seeing for the first time a man on horseback. It was 
quite natural for them to fancy the combination a 
centaur. 

In the old world, on the contrary, the matter is 
hidden away among the winnowings of mythological 
deductions. Of one thing, however, we may be 
quite certain; that the first venturesome human 
who made bold to bestride a horse and ride him, cut 
a figure very different from the modern equestrian. 
From the former as we niay well imagine him to 
have looked, to the latter as he ought to look, is a 
very long jump. 

The gentleman who wishes to be regarded as cor- 
rectly dressed for a horseback ride, in the eyes of 
competent critics, should wear, first of all, the or- 
dinary high silk hat. The Derby ? — never ! The 
equestrian who appears on the thoroughfares of 
fashion wearing a Derby, carries with liim a con- 
spicuous evidence of unfinished education in taste. 
If in addition to the Derby hat, lie wears a short 



74 equesteia:d:s. 

sack coat, tlie suggestion of " groom " as distinct 
from "gentleman rider" always inseparable from 
the Derby, is thereby measurably enhanced. 

The coat should be a cut-awaj', a duplicate of the 
fox-hunting coat in shape, and anything within 
reason to suit the wearer's taste in color. The 
material of the cut-away may be diagonal worsted 
cloth, or cf any strong cloth appropriate for a coat 
of that pattern ; but to be strictly correct, it should 
be of melton. The tailor who knows his business 
thoroughly will see that the waist-seam and skirt 
of the coat is cat very hollow to avoid unseemly creas- 
ing when the rider is mounted and the skirt cut to 
clear the saddle. 

The waistcoat may be of the same material as the 
coat, or of some fancy, but not too gorgeous pattern. 

The nether garment of the equesterian should be 
knee-breeches, buttoning snug about the knee, 
but otherwise fitting rather loose. They should 
be of blue, or brown, whip-cord cloth, which ought 
to be braided down the outside seam. They should 
be substantially strapped inside the knee, but should 
not be jirovided with double seat. They should, 
like fox-hunting breeches, be made with a continu- 
ation that buttons neatly about the calves. 

With the knee-breeches should be worn leggings 
of box cloth, or, top boots. Between the two the 
former seems to be distancing the latter in popu- 
lar favor. Many still affect the combination breeches 
and leggings, or, more correctly, trousers that con- 
tract at the knee, and from there down button like 
leggings. The knee-breeches and leggings, however, 
may be considered as the correct thing. 

Whether boots or leggings are worn, they should 
leave four of the knee-buttons of the breeches show- 
ing above the tops. This is the regular thing, as 
recognized by both fox-hunters and society eques- 
trians. 



E;JUESTUIANS. 75 

If trousers an' worn, tlicy should bt? of })ro\vn 
Tnix«Ml whip cord with strai)s for hoots. 

Witli the li';r^'in,i^s sliould Ix' worn brown tanned, 
luLTh-topped, 1 jrj up shoes, strouu:ly liand-sewcd, nnd 
with niodiuin heavy soh-s. l']nglish s(iuare-toed v/alh- 
ing shoos ar.^ about the l)est kind, otherwise New- 
market shoes witii the cloth of the uppers a shade 
darker than the le.u:gings. Leggings shouLl always 
be made to lit neatly over the shoe upper, a;ul should 
be kept in place with leather foot-straps that pass 
under the hollow of the sole. 

For neckwear the equestrian should choose a four- 
in-hand of neat pattern. Linen, linene, or celluloid 
culTs and collar are imperative ; but the shirt, if pre- 
ferable, which it almj^t always should be, may be 
woolen. 

The underclothing must be of wool or silk, and 
the drawers should be made to fit tight. 

Neatly fitting dog-skin or chamois leather gloves 
should be worn. They should be the ordinary but 
ton gloves and not gauntlets. 

Only in very cold or stormy weather should the 
equestrian wear an overcoat. Ordinarily the changes 
of temperature should be combated with heavier — or 
lighter, as the case may require— material in the 
garments already described. If an overcoat is worn 
it should be a wind and cold proof covert coat, 
which excludes both these undesirable visitors, Avith- 
out being too heavy and cumbersome. It should be 
made with a seamless back, and with tlie side seams 
heavily welted, and should be altogether without 
liniD.LT. 



* Driving. * 



|p||#- ITHOUT professing to make the matter a 



m 



litSt'll subject of antiquarian researcli, we may 

to ha^e been the use of rollers for moving 
heavy bodies, such as blocks of stone for building. 
Out of this primitive idea evolved the rude chariots 
of the ancients for use in war, races, triumphs and 
state processions. With the decline of the Roman 
Empire, and with it the deterioration of its splendid 
military highways, road vehicles would seem to 
have been almost lost sight of until they began to 
reappear three centuries ago in the form of a few 
lumbering coaches. The disreputable state of the 
roads made it infinitely preferable to travel to and 
from distant points on horseback ; and not until the 
revival of road-making within the last two centuries 
did road vehicles begin to come into prominence. 
In Oliver Cromwell's time a few hackney coaches 
bumped and rocked through the mud-holes and ruts 
of the London streets, and a few prominent county 
families had begun to use coaches of their own. 
Long after this period, however, the preference was 
for horseback riding, and the day of pleasure driv- 
ing had not yet even dawned. 

- After this came the days of the good old royal 
mail coach, the eror^i-eous liveried guards and 



DiiiviNc;. 77 

*' wliips," prepared witli i)i.st()l aiul Queen Bess 
l^luiulerbiis to deal, at a inonient's warniiifr, with 
Piich interesting characters as Dick Turpin and 
Claude Duval. 

Now it was that men began to take pride in skill- 
ful manii)ulation of the whip and reins : the ])ride 
that was toev«mtually lead up to tlu' modern passion 
for handling the reins as an agreeable })astinie. 

At the beginning of the present century four-in- 
hand driving came to the fore as a species of fash- 
ionable dissipation among the aristocracy of Eng- 
land ; so that the birth of driving for pleasure may 
be said to have been contemporaneous with the birth 
of the nineteenth century. In 1808 the celebrated 
AVestminster Four-in-hand Club was established and 
driving became all the rage. Since then there has 
been a decline, almost a dying out of pleasure driv- 
ing, until the revival of Tally-ho and Tantivy coach- 
ing twenty years ago, since which all kinds of driv 
ing have gained steadily in popular favor. 

The gentleman who is driving a four-in-hand, a T- 
cart, or English dog-cart, should wear an ordinary 
high silk hat, or, in season, the usual white felt sub- 
stitute. His coat should be a frock in cut, either 
single or double breasted, of grey worsted cloth with 
the trousers and vest of the same goods. 

If, however, the vehicle driven is a top buggy 
or side-bar, then the correct thing is a Derby hat 
of any prevailing seasonable style. In winter, and 
especially if driving a sleigh, a Russian fur cap 
should take the place of either high hat or derby. 
Tlie coat worn should be a cut-away of diagonal 
worsted cloth, light or dark, according to the season. 

The neckwear for driving should be a linen collar 
and four-in-hand scarf, with pin — in short, such as 
the same gentleman would wear if walking with a 
lady along some fashionable thoroughfare. If any 
departure in the direction of " horsiness " is in- 



78 DRIVING. 

dulged in, it should never go beyond a mere wliip or 
liorse-slioe p:ittern in the scarf-pin. 

The trousers for driving should be no different 
from the ordinary style of that garment worn at the 
time for walking. 

Gloves should always be worn. They should be of 
strongly sewn dog skin or chamois leather, light in 
warm weather, but warmly lined and trimmed with 
fur in winter. Warm clothing throughout is very 
necessary for driving in cold weather, or the swift 
motion through the cold air will soon chill a person 
through. 

The favoritH driving overcoat is the box shape in 
light drab Kersey, the velvet collar i^ white or light 
brown, the buttons are plain cloth and the seams are 
lapped. 

Many gentleman drivers are seen affecting cos- 
tumes which makes it ditficult for the casual observer 
to determine whether they are " gentlemen whips " 
or grooms. This is all wrong — unqualifiedly so ! 
There should be a sharp and unmistakable distinc- 
tion. The gentleman driver will always do well to 
bear in mind that the best dressed, and the correctly 
dressed, person is the " true gentleman;" in other 
words, he who permits nothing glaringly conspicu- 
ous in his costume. This can hardly be said 
of the gentleman at whom it is necessary to look 
twice to make sure whether or no he is master or 
groom. If this point, the distinction in hats and the 
cut-away style of coat is borne in mind, any gentle- 
man of ordinary good taste will not go far amiss in 
the matter of proper driving costumes. 



^1^ 



■^r Trivvplin^. 



MONG its many other distinctions, the latter 
part of the nineteenth century may be aptly 
termed the age of travel. Thirty years ago 
a journo}' from Xew York to San Francisco 
meant a tedious voyage around Cape Horn, across 
the Isthmus, or a still more tiying and uncomfort- 
able voyage in a " prairie clipper." Now it has 
dwindled to a mere live days' existence in a sump- 
tuous palace car, in which no element of discomfoit 
is allowed to enter to mar the pleasure of the tourist. 
With this marvelous development toward perfection 
it is perhaps quite natural that we should have de- 
veloped at the same time into a nation of travelers. 
Whimsical foreigners have sometimes of late even 
called us a nation of '* nomads." Whether we de- 
serve this latter appellation or not it is really remaik- 
able hovr much Americans travel, and the proportions 
to which the travelers' outfitting business has grown 
is no less astonishing. 

An ex])erienced and discriminating traveler is to 
be distinguished nowadays by his dress, just as 
readily as is the correctly dressed person in any 
other social channel, lie will, generally speaking, 
be found wearing a suit of Scotch tweed or cheviot. 
The coat should be a three-button cuta-way, of tho 
pattern ordinarily known as an English walking 



80 TRAVELING. 

coat. In addition to the usual breast pocket in the 
latter, however, the traveling coat should be jDro- 
vided with side pockets at the waist-seam, and the 
pockets should be covered with flaps. 

Tlie waistcoat should be made to match the coat, 
and so may th-^ trousers, but preferably these should 
be of some lighter shade of goods. 

Instead of this cut-a-way suit a four-button sack 
may be worn, in which case the coat, waistcoat and 
trousers should always be of the same goods. For 
the sack suit, also, Scotch tweed or cheviot would 
be the best material. 

For traveling, the hat should always be a Derby, 
the shade of which should harmonize with the color 
of the suit. A black Derby may be understood as 
harmonizing with any traveling suit, but in case a 
brown hat is worn it should always be a darker 
shade than the suit. 

In addition to the Derby the traveler should carry 
a skull " traveling cap" of black silk to wear in the 
cars, the Derby being always ready at hand in the 
hat-rack above the seat. 

The traveler's overcoat should be a single-breasted 
cape ulster, with a broad collar. The collar should 
be provided with a tab for buttoning it snugly about 
the throat when leaving the heated atmosphere of 
the car in cold weather. (A silk muffler, also, 
should always be number.-d among the traveler's 
efl'ects.) The sleeves of the overcoat should likewise 
be provided with tabs for buttoning closely around 
the wrists. 

The cape should be made detachable by means of 
loops and buttons beneath the collar, as the ulster 
may then be worn with or without the cape. The 
buttons of the ulster should appear plainly in view, 
and not be concealed beneath a fly, as in the ordi- 
nary ulster for walking. 

Another specialty to be observed is in the in- 
creased length of the fly in the back skirt. In the 



tu.\vi:mn<;. 81 

walking ulsttT this is luit (iv«' or six inclu's long, 
l>ut in the traveling ulstt r it sliowM extend almost 
up to the waist, and should be su])j)lenit'nted l)y side- 
edges of tlie sail e length. The object of tlu'so 
elaborations is to relieve the monotony of the other 
wise plain back, which niustbt^ regarded as inappro- 
priate in the case of a traveler away from hon:e. 
The material of the ulster should be striped or plaid 
cheviot; if striped, and of the same general pattern 
as the suit, the figures should be coarser on llie 
ulster. 

Apart from his trunks in the baggage car, the 
traveler will do well to carry an extra suit of clothes 
in a sizable valise. This should be a three-button 
cut-a-way coat of black diagonal, waistcoat to matcli. 
and striped trousers. With this the traveler always 
has ready to hand an acceptable costume for spend- 
ing the day in town in cases where liis trunks 
might, perchance, not be for the time available. 

A little Gladstone bag should also be carried, 
fitted with receptacles for toilet articles, magazines, 
papers, writing material and small necessaries gen- 
erally. 

In lieu of white shirts, collars and culTs, the 
traveler may veiy ajjpropriately wear these articles 
in some fancy pattern. 

Much might be said of the dilYerence between 
summer and winter traveling, but a hint in this 
direction is sufTicient. For instance, in summer as 
well as in Avinter the traveler should be provided 
with an ulster overcoat. But in the warm season 
this should be of linen, pongee silk, or alpaca, its 
chief object then being to protect the clothes and 
person from dust. For this reason, too, it should 
be provided with tabs at throat and wrists. 



^^ 



y^cKlin^. 



Il^f MERICAISr yachting practically dates its birth 
/<pl|jf from the organization of the New York Yacht 
W¥ Club in 1844. Previous to that event, a few 
isolated yachts were all that represented this 
noble marine recreation in this country. Close 
upon the heels of the New York Yacht Club, came 
the Brooklyn, New Jersey, Boston and numerous 
others. 

In 1851 the yacht America crossed the Atlantic 
and gained for the yachts of the United States an 
international reputation by winning the famous race 
around the Isle of Wight in competition with the 
jjicked yachts of Great Britain and the Continent. 
This important event gave a healthy impetus to the 
sport in America, and since then the yachtsmen of 
this country have succeeded in more than holding 
their own against all comers. The famous victory 
of the Volunteer over the Thistle was a triumph of 
American yachting of which the w^hole nation justly 
felt proud. 

Yachting, and particularly steam yachting, is 
gaining rapidly in popularity every year. For many 
years past it has been considered the correct thing, 
with people sufficiently wealthy to indulge the taste, 
to own a yacht, not only in the sea board cities but 
also on the great lakes. As yacht owners are people 



v.\( irriNd. H3 

of wealth and, /v<> con/c.sso, rcrmt'iiit'iit, much iitU'n- 
tioii is paid to the matter of proper cos^uining. 

The ideal dresa of tlie ya(;htsnian is a double- 
breasted sack coat of navy blue llannel, or yacht 
cloth, with waistcoat and trousers to match. Tbo 
buttons of the coat and waistcoat should be nietal, 
and ornamented witli the ensign of the club to whicli 
the owner belongs. Most yacht clubs own a die, 
with whicli the outfitter is required to stamp th'-s 
buttons. 

The pockets of the yachting jacket should always 
be provided with Haps; but the waistcoat i)Ockets 
may be unprotected. The main object of the Haps is 
to guard against rain or spray entering the pockets, 
and since in, rough weather the coat should be but- 
toned, Haps for the waistcoat are unnecessary. 

The yachtsman should wear a navy blue cloth cap 
with visor, with the color of the cloth matching the 
suit. Above the visor should be the ensign of the 
club artistically worked in gold or silver. 

In the cut of his trousers, the yachtsman should 
avoid committing himself to the stereotyped nautical 
style of skin-tightness about the hips and very loose 
buttons. This style of nether garment must be left 
to the yacht's crew ; a gentleman should make little 
or no departure from the prevailing cut of the same 
garment he would wear ashore. 

Ordinarily, the yachting shirt should be of blue 
flannel; but this is usually regulated by the club 
uniform committee who sometimes choose other 
colors. The sliirt should have a turn-down collar, 
and should be worn with a black silk tie of saih^i- 
knot pattern. 

The yachtsman's footgear should be low shoes of 
canvas or soft leather, provided with rubber soles. 
Rubber soles are very necessary in yachting to pre- 
vent slipping; and, for obvious reasons, the shoes 
shoidd contain no iron pegs. 

For " a wet sheet and a flowing sea " the yachts- 



84 YACHTING. 

man sliould wear over the above suit a water-proof 
jacket and overalls, and a cover of glaze silk over 
the cap. 

For summer cruising, or in Avarm climates, a white 
flannel suit should be substituted for the blue one, 
and a white duck cover be worn over the cap. 

Yachting is not to be properly treated of, without 
including the subject of balls and receptions aboard 
that are so closely associated with the legitimate 
pleasures of the cruise. 

For these social occasions the yachtsman should 
always be provided with a suit of fine navy blue 
broad-cloth. To be correct, this should be of the 
regulation society dress suit pattern, and must be 
adorned with the same metal buttons above- 
mentioned. The well-known naval uniform frock- 
coat has been the customary garment for this purj)ose 
in the past, and is still adhered to by many ; but the 
dress suit i)attern is now considered the proper thing. 

With the dress suit, the rubber- soled deck-shoes, 
must, of course, be discarded in favor of patent 
leather shoes or pumps. Neither must the hands 
be overlooked ; they must be made to contribute to- 
ward the elaborateness of the whole, by means of 
j)earl or white kid gloves. 

The guest who is invited to take a cruise aboard a 
yacht, should endeavor to wear the same kind of a 
suit as its owner, as harmony in costume is a very 
essential point aboard a yacht. 

The person who merely makes a call on a yachting 
party of ladies and gentlemen, at anchor in shore, 
should wear an ordinary cut-a-way suit, if in the day- 
time, but a full dress suit if in the evening. In short, 
in making a call on a yacht, one may be governed by 
the same rules that would prevail in the case of the 
yacht owner's dwelling ashore. 



^ R:(xcin^ ^ 



^ti; HAT a pity it is that Bulwer's exquisite 
jlif iir dandy, Pelliam, not alone had no taste for 
Jl^^l" racing but absohitely abhorred gatherings 
where trials of speed by thoroughbreds 
formed the drawing magnet. With Pelham dress 
was such a science and its application such an art 
that had he made the cultivation of self-adornment 
under all circumstances the sole object of his life, 
he would have easily surpassed that distinguished 
exemplar of a century ago. Beau Brummel,and lience 
it is greatly to be deplored that in his autobiography 
Mr. Pelham did not lay down some of the principles 
which would have guided him in the selection of 
proper apparel for the race-course. 

What to wear when going to the race-course is a 
question which will hardly bother the great army of 
race-goers who go there merely for the horses, or for 
betting alone. But racing has liecome so much a 
fashionable amusement that it behooves the wise 
man who looks upon race meetings not merely as 
speculative gatherings, but social rendezvous, to be- 
stow upon his appearance that thought and con- 
sideration which would be required by a morning 
reception or even the more elaborate surroundings 
of an evening assembly, and hence a few suggestions 
may not be out of place. 



86 RAC!IN-G. 

It is an axiom that for the ordinary rontine of 
life the well-attired gentleman should have about 
his person not a single article of dress which is cal- 
culated to attract above its fellows. His apparel 
should form a symphony, so to speak, where one 
part fits into another and the effect of pleasing is 
brought about by the tout ensemble. 

For the race-course, however, a little accentuation 
in cut, in pattern, in color, is not only permissible 
but desirable. Race meetings are large gatherings, 
and to render them picturesque, bolder color and 
stronger dash are essential. Hence a number of 
gentlemen whose dress would produce a pleasing 
efTect at a small gathering, in turn would present 
but a sombre, dreary appearance on the quarter- 
stretch, or about the balconies of a club house. The 
conditions are altered. An exquisite painting can only 
be appreciated in a gallery or drawing room. For the 
stage the scene painter has to put on his colors in 
masses and in contrasts, in a manner which would 
produce a grotesque effect in a private domain. 

Now to get down to specifics. The "rough and 
ready," or, as many of our clothiers term it, the 
business suit, may be worn at all times with the 
usual accompaniment of a brown or black Derby 
hat. The brown, however, is more desirable. The 
sack coat should be single-breasted and always worn 
buttoned. For the coming season stripes will be 
worn but little, while checks and plaids will practi- 
cally monopolize the attention. As said before, 
something accentuated is desirable, and hence a plaid, 
pronounced both in color and in markings, may be 
chosen. Of course a man's own good taste will 
prevent him from going to the extreme of " horsi- 
ness," which is bad form invariably, and fit only for 
stable boys out for a holiday. 

Should the gentleman escort ladies, however, the 
rough-and-ready is absolutely prohibited, and he 
must don either the morning coat, otherwise known 



KACING. 87 

as tlie three or four l)utton ciit-a-u-ay, or better yet, 
the frock or Priru-e Albert tx)at. The Kliootini^-eoat, 
or single button cut-away, with Haps and j)Ockets, 
may be worn by elderly gentleman of i)ronounce<i 
I)osition, but it is not to be recommended to younger 
men. 

Wi-.h either of these coats a fancy vest should be 
worn. And here the element of color and design 
maybe introduced to almost any extent. One can 
hardly go too far, even gold liorseshoe figures on a 
blue background being permissible. 

In the matter of trouserings, light-colored ])laids 
should be selected, and they may be cut very wide, 
and the pockets should be cut in the seams. 

Overgaiters are always to be worn, no matter what 
form of dress be used. 

For foot wear patent leather shoes or gaiters are 
becoming more and more fashionable, and very pro- 
perh^ so. They have a brighter and more lasting 
sliine than the best polished boot can show or main- 
tain, and, in the dust one is invariably bound to 
gather, a few wisps will render the patent leather 
shoe tidy and bright as when it was first taken out. 

As regards neckwear the four-in-hand should 1)e 
selected, and the knot may be held in place with u 
neat, small pin of fancy design. The big horseshoe 
pins set with diamonds and other precious stones 
are, happily, gone out of fashion among gentlemen 
of taste, and are now relegated to those who make 
their living off the turf. So far as the material of 
the neckwear is concerned, it should be of some 
bright color. The most desirable, however, is white. 

A straight collar, or one with merely the ends 
turned down, should invariably be worn. 

With all costumes, except the rough-and-ready, a 
black silk hat should be worn, and its sliai)e should 
be such as to give it just the faintest dash of 
" rakishness." 

In the matter of gloves, a brown or vellow should 



88 RACING . 

be cliosen, and the material should be dogskin. 
Fashion for some reason or other demands a heavy- 
bodied glove. 

A cane of the prevailing fashion should always be 
carried. 

Of course, every gentleman going to races carries 
field-glasses. These should be small. The old-fash- 
ioned, big telescopic affairs are no. longer in use, and 
have given way to the low, large-belled, light glass 
in an aluminum frame, which is carried in a yellow 
leather case. 

In the matter of jewelry, anything ordained by 
current fashion is proper, though no loudness is 
permitted in the way of Avatch-guards. 

For summer wear, suits of the soft grays, which 
leading tailors are importing so largely, are very 
fashionable, the coat being cut in the double-breasted 
frock style. At Saratoga the charming white flan- 
nels may be worn, as the races take place in the 
morning. At seaside race-courses, however, the loud 
blazers, boating and lawn tennis costumes, which a 
few people tried to introduco last year, are an abom- 
ination, and the innovation was very properly frowned 
down upon by all people of taste. 

It is a pity tliat the neat, little covert coat, which 
was so peculiarly adapted for race-course wear, has 
been doomed to oblivion among refined people by its 
promiscuous adoption. 

For light overcoats the fashionable tailors are now 
showing charming, Scotch mixed goods. These will 
be cut in the Chesterfield style, be of medium length 
and satin lined. For heavy wear the exquisite New- 
market, with its snug racing-like appearance, has 
shared the fate of the covert-coat, and in its place the 
cape-coat and the Inverness are in order. For very 
cold weather, an ulster of soft, thick Irish goods, 
reaching to the ankles, is fashionable. 

For driving, the white box- coat still reigns su- 
preme. For coaching the box-coat is also de rigueur, 



KACIXO. 89 

l>u( fur that purposr it is Icjii^cer arid tli«' ])Uttons are 
lar.Lrer. 

It niiglit be added tliat for all racing costumes a 
Imttou-hole bouquet is indispensai)le -not a single 
ilower, but three or four briglit colored, buds or 
sprays. 

Gentlemen who ride to races no longer wear the 
old-fashioned velvet coat. Its ])hice has been taken 
by the blaclv, single-buttoned cut a- way cloth coat 
with long waist, short skirt.s and Haps and pockets. 
At the difTerent liunt-clubs, whenever race meetings 
are given, a ver\' pleasing effect is produced by the 
members appearing in breeches and top-boots. With 
these are worn a fancy vest, a riding coat and a 
covert-coat. The breeches should be made of white 
corduroy, drab being a color more properly relegated 
to the servants. With this costume a black Derby 
hat and a hunting crop are the necessary concomit- 
ants. 



^^>o^ 



ToLo^^^!.nin$ 



P SPORT that is now making a strong bid for 
• popularity in tlie United States, is toboggan- 
' ing. Since tlie winter of 1884, wlien an 
artificial toboggan slide was erected at Sara- 
toga, this charming winter pastime has enlisted 
many enthusiastic devotees. It is an especially ex- 
hilarating and healthful form of recreation, and, 
coming at a season of the year when few other out- 
door sports are possible, its &tability would seem to 
be pretty well assured The sport was introduced 
into this country from Canada, although it had long 
been a popular pastime in Russia, and a novel fea- 
ture of the annual winter festivities at the ice-palace 
on the INeva. 

The sport of tobogganing has attracted to itself 
one of the most striking and picturesque costumes 
in the field of out-door recreations. 

The proper dress of the tobogganer consists of a 
blanket-coat, or blouse, sash, iiique^ knickerbockers, 
stockings, gloves and mocassins. 

The coat should be made of thick soft woolen 
blanket, should be cut so as to descend and fit 
shapely about the hips, should be double-breasted, 
and made to button tightly down the front. It 
should have an ample collar, and a fancy hood with 
balls or tassels suspended behind. 



T()l!()»;(iANIN<;. 91 

Tlio coat should bf drawn tigluly abonl tlu* waist 
with atiihuhirknitf.i.'dwook'ii sasli. This form of sash 
should l)J-> doubled, passrd roun<l the waist and 
looped without tieing, leaving the tasseled ends 
hanging,' gracefully over the left hip. 

Instead of the ordinary waistcoat, the tobogganer 
should wear a lieavy Cardigan jacket, or a vest of 
the same material. 

The knickerbockers should be of precisely the 
same material as the coat, and should be worn pretty 
lo(jse. The legs should terminate with an elastic 
band gathering them snugly around the leg just 
below the knee. Buttons, or buckle, or strings 
answer the same purpose, but elastic is much the 
l>est. A silk kammerbund is a good thing to sup- 
jiort the knickerbockers, but suspenders are not so 
objectionable in tobogganing as in sports where the 
limbs are more actively exercised. 

The distinctive head-dress of the tobogganer is 
known as a fyque, a picturesque knitted caj) that 
pulls comfortably down over the forehead, and when 
needful, over the ears as well, and terminates in a 
long tasseled end, that hangs down behind or on 
one side. 

The stockings must be of close, hand-knitted wool, 
thick and warm. Over the feet of the long stock- 
ings, should be worn a second pair of short socks. 
Tile top of the short socks should be rolled neatly 
down over the upx^ers of the mocassins. 

The mocassins are of blanket-lined moose, or elk- 
skin, tanned with the hair outside. The elk-skin 
mocassins I consider the best, owing to their special 
quality of being water-proof and thus impervious to 
thawing snow. Over the toes should bn worn 
" steering tips," a kind of false toe, that slips over 
the front and is held on by a strap passing round 
back of the heel. These prevent the wearing of 
holes in the toes of the mocassins while steering the 



92 TOBOCtGANITv^G. 

The hands must be protected with warm woolen 
mittens or gloves, having long gauntlets that stretch 
over the ends of the coat sleeves to protect the wrists 
and prevent the flying snow going up the sleeves. 
Either mittens or gloves shonld have gauntlets and 
should also be faced with oil-tanned dog-skin. 

In tobogganing, the colder the weather the better 
the sport, consequently the underwear should be of . 
corresponding warmth with the outer garments. 
The best material is Scotch wool; that peculiarly 
soft, warm and elastic material for which the mills 
of Scotland, somehow, have managed to stand 
without a serious rival for so long. 

As regards colors, the coat and knickerbockers 
should match, and may be of any hue or pattern to 
suit the wearers' taste. Toboggan suits are worn in 
every color from Cardinal red, trimmed with black 
stripes, to white trimmed with pale blue. The simple 
blanket trimming of three stripes around the bottom 
of the coat and around the ends of the sleeves are 
the most apjjropriate figures and the most popular. 
The tuque should match with the sash in color, and 
the stockings should also be ringed with broad 
stripes to match. The body of the stockings need 
not be of the same color as the body of the coat and 
knickerbockers, but the stripes on them, the hique, 
the sash, and the stripes on the coat should all 
match. 



I 



